My 10 Best Moments on Milos

Skinopi

After a drive along the bumpy, rocky road that leads to this tucked-away hideaway, guests have a very soft landing, as they’re greeted with homemade orange cake drenched in honey, served at a communal table built into the hillside that looks out at the shimmering ocean. A staircase cut into the cliffside leads down to a private swim spot, and the stone accommodations feature cool greys and whites, letting the deep blue sea, green and amber brush, and sky take center stage. Every room has sliding glass doors that open onto a private patio under a thatched roof, and views that look like a painting. It's a 10-minute drive to town, but secluded enough that you feel like the only ones around, a rare thing on the increasingly crowded island. The owner, Nausika, runs the hotel with passion and love, alongside a small crew that genuinely wants you to have the best stay.

Blue Bay · Milos

Blue Bay, Polyaigos

Everyone tells you to visit Kleftiko, the bone-white cliffs and sea caves on the west of the island. It's worth it, but unless you go right at sunrise, you'll spend the visit dodging boat tours. If you only have time for one excursion, make it Polyaigos and Blue Bay instead. The water is electric blue and so clear that you can see 30 feet down to the bottom.

Sarakiniko (Σαρακήνικο) · Milos

Sarakiniko

Otherwise known as moon beach, Sarakiniko is probably the most photographed spot on Milos. And it earns that title:, the white rock formations really do look lunar. But it also gets crowded fast… tour-bus crowded. Go at sunrise, or by 8am at the latest. You won't have it to yourself, but you'll be able to move around. Wander the full length of the rocks and jump off the cliffs into the water. I wouldn't leave Milos without seeing it, just go early.

Ψητοπωλείο οι Μυλωνάδες · Milos

Ψητοπωλείο οι Μυλωνάδες

You don't go to Milos for the food, but there are still some solid meals to be had. The best one I had was at this unassuming spot: a gyro shack right off the road outside Plaka. It’s a no-frills, local grill serving huge portions of gyro and souvlaki alongside great pita and tzatziki. Paired with a local beer, it's everything you want after a beach or boat day.

Cafe Palaios · Milos

Cafe Palaios

Take the stone path up into Plaka town for local Greek pastries and baked goods at this charming cafe. Try the watermelon pie, a local specialty, and the cheese crackers. Grab a box to bring to the beach.

Artopeemata ... kai alla! · Milos

Artopeemata... kai alla!

Locals line up here in the morning for bread straight out of the oven. Go early, before the day's fresh breads, pies, and pastries run out.

Άγιος Νικόλαος Τραμυθιάς · Milos

Άγιος Νικόλαος Τραμυθιάς

Starting at the statue of the Venus de Milo, I walked toward the Greek amphitheater and climbed the steps up to Άγιος Νικόλαος Τραμυθιάς for a view over the entire bay, surprised at how few people were there. As the sun faded into the horizon, music drifted over from Plaka. It was one of the most romantic moments I had on Milos.

Firopotamos · Milos

Firopotamos

Firopotamos, the fishing village in the north, is incredibly calm and empty, the opposite of the more famous fishing villages on the island. Old boat shacks line the water, and there's an easy spot to climb in and out for a swim. Morning or afternoon, it's peaceful all day. Walk to the abandoned church bell at the edge of the bay to jump in.

Agathia Beach · Milos

Paralia Agathia

Most visitors stay on the east side of Milos, where the towns and restaurants are. The west side is wild and volcanic, the roads unpaved and rough enough that rental car companies won't cover you out there. But if you're a confident driver with an SUV, it's worth visiting the area as the emptiest beaches on the island are out here. On the way, watch for goats climbing the steep rock faces; it’s impossible to tell how they keep their footing. There are no shops or restaurants along the route, and it's 45 minutes to an hour each way, so plan to spend the day, or charter a boat if you'd rather skip the drive. The beach itself: calm, clear water, soft sand, and nobody else around.

Cove before Tsigrado Beach

We got a self-drive rental boat one day, and I asked the 19-year-old who kindly taught us to drive it at (his family is one of the largest on Milos) what his favorite beach was. He pointed us to a stretch between two rocks, just before Tsigrado Beach, with clear water and cliffs on both sides. It was easy to anchor and jump in, and while a few other boats came and went, it was never crowded. A good spot to lounge and swim for hours.