pub, sort-of, with its focus on food rather than dark corners and daytime drinking – a mix only the Plimsoll manages. Still, this isn’t a fault as such, simply a different beast. And what the beast it is – an airy room with nice wooden furniture, excellent light and incredibly friendly staff – is a good one. The rotisserie chicken is front and centre, the small menu’s lynchpin, and it is excellent – moist, well flavoured, as good as in Barcelona, though not quite reaching the heavenly heights of D&K Gambian Chicken. The potatoes are crispier than I’d like, much more like roast potatoes – they don’t sit in the fat below the chicken, but are roasted in it separately – and call out for gravy, not aioli. The chips are much more suited, and are very good. The prawn scotch egg was fine, but a little wet and had me making an unfavourable comparison to prawn toast, while the toasted Cuban sandwich was a bit too rich with nothing cutting it, though that may be my own preference. In the evening – and this is because of where it is and its current vogue – it is rammed with young professionals from around Shoreditch, very happy to be where they are. Horrid. To enjoy it, go for lunch on a sunny day.