My last stop was Isolina, a traditional taverna serving ceviche and hearty meat dishes, like beef loin with fried potatoes, stewed tomatoes, and white rice. The mood there was lively: Boisterous families laughed and jockeyed for the serving spoons. My dessert was a criminally wide slice of crema volteada, a creamy Peruvian flan, which sat regally in a chilled caramel sauce. All of this goes down easiest, I'm told, with a frosty pisco sour, another national treasure. - Nina Renata Aron